Jessica Baldwin : Award-winning Journalist

Travel Writer and Luxury Spa Reviewer

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Ten of the Best East Anglian RetreatsEast Anglia crops up more frequently in jokes than it does vacation plans – trust me, I am a Norfolk girl! However, with dramatic coastlines, quaint villages and beautiful countryside this unique part of Britain has everything you need for the perfect staycation. East Anglia is all about getting outside and exploring the fascinating landscape. My best childhood memories are off picnics and sailing in Suffolk and hiking across North Norfolk, and after an exhausting day a cosy b&b is just what you need to complete the experience. Here are my top ten bases from which to explore this fascinating region. Kesgrave Hall Suffolk is home to countless picturesque villages and lively coastal market towns and Kesgrave Hall Hotel is the perfect boutique base from which to explore them. The stylish hotel has 23 en-suite bedrooms boasting dreamy beds, fluffy towels and free Wi-Fi. Quote Britain’s Finest when booking a two night stay between Wednesday April 3rd and Friday August 30th 2013 and you will get upgraded to the best available room. You will also enjoy a complimentary full English breakfast and three course dinner on both days, plus one champagne afternoon tea. This exclusive package is just £190 per person. The Great House Restaurant and Hotel In medieval times, the Suffolk town of Lavenham was one of the wealthiest towns in Britain, thanks to its lucrative wool trade. Today, the quaint timbre-framed town is home to a wonderful rural bolt hole; The Great House Restaurant and Hotel. The fifteenth century property has just five sought after en-suite bedrooms featuring plasma TVs and WiFi as well as a complimentary decanter of sherry for a warm welcome. Make sure you don’t miss its fantastic restaurant, voted as one of Britain’s top 100 by The Sunday Times. Hotel du Vin & Bistro Conveniently located in the heart of Cambridge, this historic building was once part of Cambridge University. Today you are more likely to find affluent couples on a romantic break than cash-strapped students studying in these walls. Having received a quirky makeover the hotel now features forty one bedrooms and suites decadently kitted out with hand sprung beds, Egyptian cotton bed linen and grand roll-top baths. As the name suggests, this hotel also has a fantastic wine collection to explore in its tasting room. Attracting over three million tourists every year, this historic university town is a great choice for culture vultures. The Hoste Located in Burnham Market, one of North Norfolk’s prettiest villages, The Hoste is the perfect pit-stop for weary walkers and wildlife lovers. The 17th century pub boasts 58 boutique bedrooms, each with their own character. Think Molton Brown toiletries, pretty balconies and decadent beds complete with goose down pillows. After a day exploring Burnham Market’s independent cafes, boutiques and galleries, head to the restaurant and work your way through their enormous wine list – 300 bottles no less! If you still have a clear head in the morning head to Brancaster Staithe for sea air and saltmarshes. The Crown and Castle The quintessentially English town of Orford is situated on Suffolk’s beautiful heritage coast. Located on the banks of the River Ore, this ornate village dates back to the twelfth century and is a mecca for hikers, bikers and bird lovers. I love The Crown and Castle, the stylish retreat boats nineteen light and airy bedrooms, each with an upmarket country feel and most with generous 6-foot beds and en-suites. They even accept a limited number of canine friends so you can ring in advance and pack your pooch. The restaurant serves up creative dishes using the finest locally sourced ingredients. Tuddenham Mill Nestled between Newmarket and Bury St Edmunds on the Suffolk border, Tuddenham Mill is a hotel with a difference. Located within a traditional watermill the striking property perfectly marries traditional oak beams with sleek modern interiors. Their spacious rooms feature refreshingly high ceilings, exposed beams and decadently comfortable bedding. There is nothing more relaxing than waking up to the sound of the mill’s trickling water and the local birdlife. Alternatively, those after an adrenaline shot can go quad biking and clay pigeon shooting at the nearby activity park, Wildtracks. Hotel Felix Set in over three acres of landscaped gardens, Hotel Felix offers a stylish stay just a stone’s throw from the shops, galleries and restaurants of Cambridge. The four star hotel combines tradition Victorian architecture with thoughtful modern touches. Their fifty two individually designed bedrooms feature King Size Hypnos beds, walk-in rainforest showers and pay as you view movies. The hotel’s restaurant, Grafiti, serves well-presented Mediterranean fare amidst sumptuous surroundings and with the city centre just a mile away guests are spoilt for choice for dining out. The Norfolk Mead Hotel Hidden at the end of an elaborate driveway this former merchant’s house is the perfect crash pad for those wanting to explore the tranquil Norfolk Broads. The grand Georgian property boasts commanding views across the River Bure and exudes an informal country house atmosphere. Surrounded by eight acres of riverside gardens it is the perfect place to unwind and explore the local area which is abundant with wild flowers and wildlife. The hotel has just undergone an exciting refurbishment which it will reveal to the public on April 10th 2013. The Pier at Harwich Life in the historic town of Harwich revolves entirely around its busy quayside. Having received its charter back in the thirteenth century the town is steeped in history and boasts a lively nautical scene, with the busy harbour still offering regular ferry trips to Holland. However, if dry land is more your scene, book in to The Pier Hotel. Proudly located on the quay and you can take in the nautical views from the comfort of one of their fourteen contemporary rooms. Flooded with natural light the stylishly decorated rooms offer comfy beds, private bathrooms and free Wi-Fi.

Ten of the Best East Anglian Retreats

East Anglia crops up more frequently in jokes than it does vacation plans – trust me, I am a Norfolk girl! However, with dramatic coastlines, quaint villages and beautiful countryside this unique part of Britain has everything you need for the perfect staycation. East Anglia is all about getting outside and exploring the fascinating landscape. My best childhood memories are off picnics and sailing in Suffolk and hiking across North Norfolk, and after an exhausting day a cosy b&b is just what you need to complete the experience. Here are my top ten bases from which to explore this fascinating region.

Kesgrave Hall

Suffolk is home to countless picturesque villages and lively coastal market towns and Kesgrave Hall Hotel is the perfect boutique base from which to explore them. The stylish hotel has 23 en-suite bedrooms boasting dreamy beds, fluffy towels and free Wi-Fi. Quote Britain’s Finest when booking a two night stay between Wednesday April 3rd and Friday August 30th 2013 and you will get upgraded to the best available room. You will also enjoy a complimentary full English breakfast and three course dinner on both days, plus one champagne afternoon tea. This exclusive package is just £190 per person.

The Great House Restaurant and Hotel

In medieval times, the Suffolk town of Lavenham was one of the wealthiest towns in Britain, thanks to its lucrative wool trade. Today, the quaint timbre-framed town is home to a wonderful rural bolt hole; The Great House Restaurant and Hotel. The fifteenth century property has just five sought after en-suite bedrooms featuring plasma TVs and WiFi as well as a complimentary decanter of sherry for a warm welcome. Make sure you don’t miss its fantastic restaurant, voted as one of Britain’s top 100 by The Sunday Times.

Hotel du Vin & Bistro

Conveniently located in the heart of Cambridge, this historic building was once part of Cambridge University. Today you are more likely to find affluent couples on a romantic break than cash-strapped students studying in these walls. Having received a quirky makeover the hotel now features forty one bedrooms and suites decadently kitted out with hand sprung beds, Egyptian cotton bed linen and grand roll-top baths. As the name suggests, this hotel also has a fantastic wine collection to explore in its tasting room. Attracting over three million tourists every year, this historic university town is a great choice for culture vultures.

The Hoste

Located in Burnham Market, one of North Norfolk’s prettiest villages, The Hoste is the perfect pit-stop for weary walkers and wildlife lovers. The 17th century pub boasts 58 boutique bedrooms, each with their own character. Think Molton Brown toiletries, pretty balconies and decadent beds complete with goose down pillows. After a day exploring Burnham Market’s independent cafes, boutiques and galleries, head to the restaurant and work your way through their enormous wine list – 300 bottles no less! If you still have a clear head in the morning head to Brancaster Staithe for sea air and saltmarshes.

The Crown and Castle

The quintessentially English town of Orford is situated on Suffolk’s beautiful heritage coast. Located on the banks of the River Ore, this ornate village dates back to the twelfth century and is a mecca for hikers, bikers and bird lovers. I love The Crown and Castle, the stylish retreat boats nineteen light and airy bedrooms, each with an upmarket country feel and most with generous 6-foot beds and en-suites. They even accept a limited number of canine friends so you can ring in advance and pack your pooch. The restaurant serves up creative dishes using the finest locally sourced ingredients.

Tuddenham Mill

Nestled between Newmarket and Bury St Edmunds on the Suffolk border, Tuddenham Mill is a hotel with a difference. Located within a traditional watermill the striking property perfectly marries traditional oak beams with sleek modern interiors. Their spacious rooms feature refreshingly high ceilings, exposed beams and decadently comfortable bedding. There is nothing more relaxing than waking up to the sound of the mill’s trickling water and the local birdlife. Alternatively, those after an adrenaline shot can go quad biking and clay pigeon shooting at the nearby activity park, Wildtracks.

Hotel Felix

Set in over three acres of landscaped gardens, Hotel Felix offers a stylish stay just a stone’s throw from the shops, galleries and restaurants of Cambridge. The four star hotel combines tradition Victorian architecture with thoughtful modern touches. Their fifty two individually designed bedrooms feature King Size Hypnos beds, walk-in rainforest showers and pay as you view movies. The hotel’s restaurant, Grafiti, serves well-presented Mediterranean fare amidst sumptuous surroundings and with the city centre just a mile away guests are spoilt for choice for dining out.

The Norfolk Mead Hotel

Hidden at the end of an elaborate driveway this former merchant’s house is the perfect crash pad for those wanting to explore the tranquil Norfolk Broads. The grand Georgian property boasts commanding views across the River Bure and exudes an informal country house atmosphere. Surrounded by eight acres of riverside gardens it is the perfect place to unwind and explore the local area which is abundant with wild flowers and wildlife. The hotel has just undergone an exciting refurbishment which it will reveal to the public on April 10th 2013.

The Pier at Harwich

Life in the historic town of Harwich revolves entirely around its busy quayside. Having received its charter back in the thirteenth century the town is steeped in history and boasts a lively nautical scene, with the busy harbour still offering regular ferry trips to Holland. However, if dry land is more your scene, book in to The Pier Hotel. Proudly located on the quay and you can take in the nautical views from the comfort of one of their fourteen contemporary rooms. Flooded with natural light the stylishly decorated rooms offer comfy beds, private bathrooms and free Wi-Fi.

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Welsh Spa Challenges - Wellbeing Magazine

As if you didn’t need telling – the world’s top athletes are currently competing in London for the ultimate prizes in sport. And to build on the excitement Visit Wales is challenging people to head for Wales on holiday and try their hands (and feet!) at some medal-themed challenges.

This week there’s all kinds of excitement taking place in the swimming arena – including the 100m backstroke. But whilst the athletes will be ploughing up and down the pool we recommend you try backstroke of a different kind – how about a nice relaxing massage?

Wales boasts a host of enticing palaces of pampering – but don’t take our word for it. We’ve asked Welsh spa expert Jessica Baldwin to come up with her gold, silver and bronze spa challenges. We know it’s a tough job, but fancy having a go?

Over to you Jessica!

So here are my three challenges – if you’re in Wales this summer have a go and tell me how you got on!

BRONZE – Get slathered in seaweed
Perched on a cliff overlooking picture-perfect Carmarthen Bay, the marine spa at St Brides offers the ultimate coastal retreat. The hydrotherapy infinity pool melts seamlessly into the sea beyond with stunning views of Britain’s only coastal national park. You challenge is to try their Marine Radiance Facial! This organic treatment uses freshly harvested local seaweed leaves to nourish and soothe the skin and décolletage. Don’t forget to take a stroll along the dramatic coastal path which features everything from volcanic headlands to flooded glacial valleys.

SILVER - Discover Your ‘dosha’
You wouldn’t expect to find an Indian oasis set within 650 acres of beautiful Welsh countryside would you? Not only does The Vale Spa boast a Chai café and Indian inspired tented slumber lounge, it also offers a range of Ayurvedic treatments, designed to work in sync with your personality type, or your ‘dosha’. Your silver challenge is the Balanati treatment; after your dosha consultation the ancient healing technique of Shirodhara sees warm oil drizzled over your forehead and body, promoting peace and balance.

GOLD – Find a fantastic facial
With an idyllic location on the banks of a tranquil lake, Kingfisher Spa offers what I think is the most luxurious facial in Wales. You gold challenge involves submitting to this most wonderful of treatments. Using silk, diamonds, black truffle and of course gold, it promises to leave you looking younger and feeling like a champion in no time.

What do you think? Reckon you can crack them? Let me know how you get on in the comments below!

Check out the Visit Wales website for more information about holiday ideas and spa breaks in Wales.

More about Jessica
Jessica Baldwin is an award-winning travel writer and spa reviewer. Her travels have taken her from Soho to the Sahara in search of the world’s best spas and seen her try everything from a 24 crt gold facial in Tuscany to having her own blood injected into her face in Spain! But, with all of her family residing in the Vale of Glamorgan she regularly escapes London to explore the beautiful valleys and spa hotels of Wales.

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The Surin, Phuket - Jetsetter.com

About your stay

Backed by coconut groves on one of Phuket’s most secluded beaches, the Surin’s idyllic location on the island’s west coast is hard to beat, and a recent revamp by acclaimed American architect Ed Tuttle has left the 103 stylish cottages looking dapper. The resort fuses traditional touches with modern amenities, with most facilities — including the five restaurants and bars — focusing on jaw-dropping views of the Andaman Sea.

The Review

Regarded as one of the most luxurious hotels in Phuket, the Surin makes every guest feel like an A-lister. With 103 suites and cottages positioned on the golden shores of Pansea Beach, this swank resort on the Andaman Sea is focused on rejuvenation and romance.

Thanks to acclaimed architect Ed Tuttle, rooms have a chic new look as of July 2012. Interiors feature vaulted ceilings, sage throw pillows, sitting areas, and private outdoor sundecks, some with postcard-perfect views of Pansea Beach, a stretch of sand that is accessible to the public only by boat. One-Bedroom Superior Cottages are 366 square feet, but for more room and direct beach access, splurge on the Beach Studio Suite.

With 103 suites and cottages on Pansea Beach, this swank resort is made for romance.The Lomtalay Thai Restaurant serves local dishes in an indoor/outdoor setting, but the table to grab is at Beach Restaurant, where even the fresh seafood and imported prime meats can’t take away from the uninterrupted seascapes. Those eager to put their skills to the test in the kitchen can enroll in cooking classes and help prepare traditional Thai cuisine.

Elsewhere there’s a beachside gym, tennis courts and a full-service spa specializing in treatments like coconut or organic honey body scrubs. Rather make a splash? Water sports abound at the Surin; kayaking, body boarding, Hobie Cat sailing, snorkeling and scuba diving are all on offer (additional fees apply). After baking on the sand, head to the beach bar for a fruity cocktail and watch the black-tiled, hexagon-shaped swimming pool reflect one of Phuket’s famous sunsets.

What we love

  • Daily breakfast is included in the Jetsetter rate
  • Dramatic sunsets from the hotel’s beach bar, one of five on-site outlets
  • Surin Spa has a 20-treatment menu; try the traditional Thai massage
  • A central west coast location makes the Surin a great base for exploring Phuket
  • Beachfront waiters deliver chilled fresh coconut juice straight to your sun lounger

What to know

  • A 10 percent service charge per night will be collected at the Jetsetter checkout
  • Although just a short taxi drive from the infamous party resort of Patong, this area gets quiet at around 10:30 p.m.
  • The resort is on Pansea Beach, which is accessible to the public only by boat
  • Be sure to pack mosquito repellent
  • Some cottages are a 10-minute walk from the center of the resort
  • Hillside Cottages were renovated between May to July 2012
  • A new spa is set to open in October 2012
  • The beach restaurant will re-open at the end of October 2012

What to do

  • Experience. Learn to sail a catamaran on Pansea Beach, and once you have your sea legs you can set sail to explore the local bays and beaches.
  • Golf. Listen up, golf enthusiasts: The hotel has five international standard golf courses within a 30-minute drive. We recommend Blue Canyon Country Club, home to one of Tiger Woods’s favorite courses.
  • See. Culture vultures should journey to the famous Big Buddha statue high in the Nakkerd Hills between Chalong and Kata. The sunsets are sensational.
  • Pamper. The hotel spa offers 20 relaxing treatments. Try the traditional Thai massage, or for a fruitier treat book a body scrub that uses freshly grated local coconut.
  • Adrenaline. Amazing Bike Tours offers fun-filled tours of some of the islands most fascinating scenery including waterfalls, the jungle and traditional Thai villages. Check their website for daytrip itineraries.

How to get there

Flights are available to Phuket International Airport (HKT) from major U.S. cities on a variety of carriers. Transfers to/from HKT, about 14 miles away, are approximately $38 for up to three people per car, each way, or $57 for up to six people per van, each way, and can be arranged through the property. If you’re renting a car for the transfer, self-parking is complimentary.

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A Sinner’s Guide to Spa-ing: The New Year Retox - The Arbuturian Wake up, it’s 2012. Yes, draw yourself out of your turkey induced comas, for January is the time we all pretend that we are going to change our lives for the better, drink less, eat less, spend less…isn’t it? Not this year. There is something seriously fishy going on when you consider that Gillian McKeith, the bean-eating health-obsessed nutritionist, is the same age as saucy temptress Nigella Lawson; I know who I’d rather look like. So with this in mind, I set out on a mission to discover the country’s naughtiest, most decadent and downright indulgent beauty treatments. Oh yes, welcome to the New Year Retox. My journey began at the May Fair Hotel’s underground spa, home to London’s sweetest treatment. Upon arrival, the elegant hotel was brimming with spruced-up and somewhat intoxicated ladies celebrating Christmas. I was directed down towards the spa, and I was pleased to find the oriental inspired sanctuary provided an oasis of calm amongst the festive storm. As a friendly and unassuming therapist escorted me to the treatment room, I felt a pang of guilt; through no fault of her own, she was on dangerously thin ice from the second I slipped into my gorgeous paper pants. It had been a spa-filled week of reviews and my agitated skin was still crying out in pain from my last torture treatment, I mean body treatment, where I was excruciatingly exfoliated to within an inch of my life (and bones) at a spa that shall remain nameless. The May Fair’s milk and honey body wrap promised to restore my skin and leave it velvety soft, but as she walked towards me with a bowl of coarse sea salt scrub, I thought I might cry. After a somewhat uncomfortable exfoliation, she coated me in the deliciously soothing milk and honey body mask which instantly cooled and relieved my skin. Despite many people steering clear of honey, it is actually one of nature’s great healers, with antiseptic qualities and the ability to attract water, it’s fantastically moisturising. And as for the milk, well if it’s good enough for the Queen of the Nile, it’s good enough for me; I haven’t bagged a king yet, have I!? As I lay on the bed, motionless and bound in cling film, looking somewhat like a murder victim, my therapist gave me a blissful head massage while I pondered what treatment could possibly be more calorifically indulgent than this… With my new found silky soft skin, I jumped in the car and headed to the Hertfordshire countryside. I breathed in the fresh air and admired the rolling hills, feeling a little phoney as I kicked off my shiny new Hunters that had never seen a puddle in their lives, and prepared for the most indulgent treatment ever: Champneys chocolate body wrap. My spa day began with lunch in the restaurant, which was an ironic affair as I was guided through the healthy options and correct ratios of protein, carbohydrate and vegetable; I would be drowning in chocolate soon enough – oh and what a way to go! Okay, so I can’t pretend that chocolate is a ‘superfood’, but the delicious treat is packed full of antioxidants which protects the body from ageing, so next time you see Nigella nip down to the kitchen in her negligee to lick the spoon, you know why she looks so smug (and young). As I excitedly climbed into my paper pants, I was almost shaking with anticipation as the therapist arrived with a giant bowl of chocolatey goodness and a paint brush. First she scrubbed my skin with sugar (as if the treatment wasn’t naughty enough), then having painted me from head to toe in the warm ooze and wrapped me up in foil, she gave me a sublime coconut oil head massage; I felt like a human Bounty bar. When she woke me up (yes it was that good), she directed me towards the shower where I battled with the thick paste; it’s true, chocolate really does cling to your hips! “Does anyone ever taste it?” I shouted from the shower. “A few silly people do, but it’s mixed with moisturisers and shea butter,” she explained, “so it would taste horrible.” I laughed and agreed, “Yes, some people are so silly,” I said, desperately trying to rinse out my mouth. With the taste of manky moisturiser still fresh in my mind’s palate, I headed towards Sofitel St James’s So Spa to wash my mouth out…with gin! Bring on the Martini Manicure. Some things just fit; steak and red wine, coffee and dark chocolate, Torvill and Dean, and now the martini and manicure (I am less sure about the spa’s ‘Pint and Pedicure’ but hey ho). As my friend and I sat at the manicure station eagerly awaiting our cocktails, we couldn’t help but feel just a little bit Sex and the City: “No, I would be Charlotte, you would be Samantha”, I said. “But Samantha is a scary nymphomaniac?” she replied, looking a little hurt. “I know…oh look, our cocktails.” Phew, saved by the gin. I watched my friend sipping her cocktail all too precariously, “Don’t worry sweetie,” I said, “gin is good for you, I found a website that says it is good for arthritis, losing weight, your bones and your heart,” and even as I said this, I knew it was rubbish, but it tasted delicious. As we exited the hotel with our five-star manicures, I spotted the afternoon tea room overflowing with ladies who lunch and enough cakes to feed a small army. I think I have found my next fix. On the final day of my New Year Retox, with a sore gin-soaked head, I made my way to London’s very own secret Moroccan retreat, The Spa at Dolphin Square. The perfect place to subdue a hangover, the dimly lit spa is stuffed with intricate wooden carvings and luxurious velvet clad relaxation rooms adorned with flickering candles in which to collapse. I was here to experience the ‘Spa and Mmm’, a three-hour ritual encompassing a range of pampering treatments and tasty treats. Ironically, my treatment started off more like spa and hmm than spa and mmm. As I fought my way through the salt-infused steam room and sat down, I took a deep breath, ready to relax, only to be collected two seconds later for my next treatment; hmm, either there was some confusion over my 15 minute steam, or I had just found Pimlico’s very own time capsule. Hey ho, onto the rhassoul ritual. After being caked in clay from head to toe, the therapist attempted to open the door to the rhassoul heat room, but hmm, we were locked out. I panicked a little as my body began to stiffen like a Covent Garden mime artist, but after five minutes, two therapists and one knife, I was in. Hooray! I sat in the steamy chamber and let the rhassoul mud get to work. Literally translating as ‘the substance which cleanses’, the rich mud found deep within the Atlas Mountains can absorb its own weight in oils and toxins, making it incredibly detoxifying. So, with a toxin-free blank canvas to play with, I popped into the tepadarium relaxation room for the next treat(ment): a glass of chilled champagne and a plate of delicious goodies; now that beats wheatgrass and carrot sticks any day. The Milk and Honey Body Wrap is available from the May Fair Spa, at £99 for 1 hour. For more information, visit the website. The Chocolate Wrapper treatment is available from Champney’s Tring, priced at £65 for 55 minutes. For more information, visit the website. The Martini and Manicure treatment is available at the So Spa at the Sofitel St James, priced at £45. For more info and further treatments, visit the website. The Spa & Mmm day treatment package is available from the Spa at Dolphin Square, priced at £125. For more info, please visit the website.

A Sinner’s Guide to Spa-ing: The New Year Retox - The Arbuturian

Wake up, it’s 2012. Yes, draw yourself out of your turkey induced comas, for January is the time we all pretend that we are going to change our lives for the better, drink less, eat less, spend less…isn’t it? Not this year. There is something seriously fishy going on when you consider that Gillian McKeith, the bean-eating health-obsessed nutritionist, is the same age as saucy temptress Nigella Lawson; I know who I’d rather look like. So with this in mind, I set out on a mission to discover the country’s naughtiest, most decadent and downright indulgent beauty treatments. Oh yes, welcome to the New Year Retox.

My journey began at the May Fair Hotel’s underground spa, home to London’s sweetest treatment. Upon arrival, the elegant hotel was brimming with spruced-up and somewhat intoxicated ladies celebrating Christmas. I was directed down towards the spa, and I was pleased to find the oriental inspired sanctuary provided an oasis of calm amongst the festive storm. As a friendly and unassuming therapist escorted me to the treatment room, I felt a pang of guilt; through no fault of her own, she was on dangerously thin ice from the second I slipped into my gorgeous paper pants. It had been a spa-filled week of reviews and my agitated skin was still crying out in pain from my last torture treatment, I mean body treatment, where I was excruciatingly exfoliated to within an inch of my life (and bones) at a spa that shall remain nameless.

The May Fair’s milk and honey body wrap promised to restore my skin and leave it velvety soft, but as she walked towards me with a bowl of coarse sea salt scrub, I thought I might cry. After a somewhat uncomfortable exfoliation, she coated me in the deliciously soothing milk and honey body mask which instantly cooled and relieved my skin. Despite many people steering clear of honey, it is actually one of nature’s great healers, with antiseptic qualities and the ability to attract water, it’s fantastically moisturising. And as for the milk, well if it’s good enough for the Queen of the Nile, it’s good enough for me; I haven’t bagged a king yet, have I!? As I lay on the bed, motionless and bound in cling film, looking somewhat like a murder victim, my therapist gave me a blissful head massage while I pondered what treatment could possibly be more calorifically indulgent than this…

With my new found silky soft skin, I jumped in the car and headed to the Hertfordshire countryside. I breathed in the fresh air and admired the rolling hills, feeling a little phoney as I kicked off my shiny new Hunters that had never seen a puddle in their lives, and prepared for the most indulgent treatment ever: Champneys chocolate body wrap. My spa day began with lunch in the restaurant, which was an ironic affair as I was guided through the healthy options and correct ratios of protein, carbohydrate and vegetable; I would be drowning in chocolate soon enough – oh and what a way to go!

Okay, so I can’t pretend that chocolate is a ‘superfood’, but the delicious treat is packed full of antioxidants which protects the body from ageing, so next time you see Nigella nip down to the kitchen in her negligee to lick the spoon, you know why she looks so smug (and young). As I excitedly climbed into my paper pants, I was almost shaking with anticipation as the therapist arrived with a giant bowl of chocolatey goodness and a paint brush. First she scrubbed my skin with sugar (as if the treatment wasn’t naughty enough), then having painted me from head to toe in the warm ooze and wrapped me up in foil, she gave me a sublime coconut oil head massage; I felt like a human Bounty bar. When she woke me up (yes it was that good), she directed me towards the shower where I battled with the thick paste; it’s true, chocolate really does cling to your hips!

“Does anyone ever taste it?” I shouted from the shower. “A few silly people do, but it’s mixed with moisturisers and shea butter,” she explained, “so it would taste horrible.” I laughed and agreed, “Yes, some people are so silly,” I said, desperately trying to rinse out my mouth.

With the taste of manky moisturiser still fresh in my mind’s palate, I headed towards Sofitel St James’s So Spa to wash my mouth out…with gin! Bring on the Martini Manicure. Some things just fit; steak and red wine, coffee and dark chocolate, Torvill and Dean, and now the martini and manicure (I am less sure about the spa’s ‘Pint and Pedicure’ but hey ho). As my friend and I sat at the manicure station eagerly awaiting our cocktails, we couldn’t help but feel just a little bit Sex and the City: “No, I would be Charlotte, you would be Samantha”, I said. “But Samantha is a scary nymphomaniac?” she replied, looking a little hurt. “I know…oh look, our cocktails.” Phew, saved by the gin. I watched my friend sipping her cocktail all too precariously, “Don’t worry sweetie,” I said, “gin is good for you, I found a website that says it is good for arthritis, losing weight, your bones and your heart,” and even as I said this, I knew it was rubbish, but it tasted delicious. As we exited the hotel with our five-star manicures, I spotted the afternoon tea room overflowing with ladies who lunch and enough cakes to feed a small army. I think I have found my next fix.

On the final day of my New Year Retox, with a sore gin-soaked head, I made my way to London’s very own secret Moroccan retreat, The Spa at Dolphin Square. The perfect place to subdue a hangover, the dimly lit spa is stuffed with intricate wooden carvings and luxurious velvet clad relaxation rooms adorned with flickering candles in which to collapse. I was here to experience the ‘Spa and Mmm’, a three-hour ritual encompassing a range of pampering treatments and tasty treats. Ironically, my treatment started off more like spa and hmm than spa and mmm. As I fought my way through the salt-infused steam room and sat down, I took a deep breath, ready to relax, only to be collected two seconds later for my next treatment; hmm, either there was some confusion over my 15 minute steam, or I had just found Pimlico’s very own time capsule.

Hey ho, onto the rhassoul ritual. After being caked in clay from head to toe, the therapist attempted to open the door to the rhassoul heat room, but hmm, we were locked out. I panicked a little as my body began to stiffen like a Covent Garden mime artist, but after five minutes, two therapists and one knife, I was in. Hooray! I sat in the steamy chamber and let the rhassoul mud get to work. Literally translating as ‘the substance which cleanses’, the rich mud found deep within the Atlas Mountains can absorb its own weight in oils and toxins, making it incredibly detoxifying.

So, with a toxin-free blank canvas to play with, I popped into the tepadarium relaxation room for the next treat(ment): a glass of chilled champagne and a plate of delicious goodies; now that beats wheatgrass and carrot sticks any day.

The Milk and Honey Body Wrap is available from the May Fair Spa, at £99 for 1 hour. For more information, visit the website. The Chocolate Wrapper treatment is available from Champney’s Tring, priced at £65 for 55 minutes. For more information, visit the website. The Martini and Manicure treatment is available at the So Spa at the Sofitel St James, priced at £45. For more info and further treatments, visit the website. The Spa & Mmm day treatment package is available from the Spa at Dolphin Square, priced at £125. For more info, please visit the website.

0 notes

The Princess and the Coconut (Desroches Island, Seychelles) - The Arbuturian

THUD. I’m dicing with death here. That’s the third coconut to narrowly miss my head. In the Seychelles, more people die from falling coconuts than shark attacks. Despite this, I cannot move. I am paralysed, not by the coconut (not this time anyway), but by Desroches. It is without doubt the most beautiful island I have visited. Ever.

Floating aimlessly in the middle of the Indian Ocean, the coral island boasts 15km of powder white sandy beaches, acres of tropical jungle and some of the most luxurious villas on the planet. In fact it recently became home to the most expensive villa in the Seychelles, a snip at £10,000 a night. An island escape fit for a king no less. But do not take my word for it, ask Prince William, he swept Kate away on a make or break holiday there back in 2007 and we all know how that ended! The miles of totally isolated sandy beaches, crystal clear turquoise waters and private candlelit dinners must have floated Kate’s boat too.

Thankfully it is not only the blue blooded that can enjoy this private island experience, although deep pockets help. Desroches has been attracting the rich and famous for years. “Leonardo Di Caprio stayed in that villa,” my host points out as we whizz through the jungle on our golf buggy, the island’s preferred method of transport, after the private jet that is.

Stretched out on my lounger overlooking my private infinity pool, I am beginning to worry that this lavish life is becoming a little too normal. I have been treated like a queen since the moment I stepped into the Etihad lounge at Heathrow. “Champagne madam?” made a delightfully different greeting to the usual grunts I receive en route to my flight. The bubbles were followed by a beaming spa therapist talking me through the list of complimentary treatments I could choose from in the Six Senses spa. Having been pummelled into a dreamlike state I abandoned the spa menu and consulted the a la carte food menu; steamed seabass, fresh salads and juicy steaks replaced the usual airport slop and endless champagne washed it all down a treat. Day glow uniforms and claustrophobic seats seemed like a distant memory as I downed my fresh carrot juice and savoured my refreshing duck salad before bedding down to watch a film.

But this was just the start of my right royal holiday; no sooner had I stepped off the plane in Mahe was I met by an eager chauffer waiting to drive me to my first port of call, the Four Seasons.

“Welcome to paradise,” he said in a smooth Creole accent as he popped open a bottle of champagne and filled our glasses. Just minutes from the airport, the road sides gave way to colourful beach houses and chalky turquoise waters with fishing boats bobbing in the breeze to one side and steep forest exuding the evening’s rainfall to the other. Soon we were passing through the Four Seasons’ golden gates, “Now this is the real paradise,” he said as we peaked the small hill which gave way to breathtaking views of the sandy cove below.

A team of radiant staff greeted us with a refreshing iced hibiscus tea before taking us to our hilltop villa. Located amongst the lush tropical gardens, the spacious glass fronted property took full advantage of its picturesque position with commanding views of the ocean from every conceivable station; the beds, the bath, the shower…

I challenge anyone to take in that view and not immediately dash down to the hotel beach. Surprisingly quiet, its powdery shores are the perfect place to relax with a book to the soundtrack of crashing waves, or for the more adventurous the gorgeous James is on hand with his paddleboards, kayaks and other aquatic delights.

Lunch was spent at their elegant yet relaxed poolside restaurant, Kannel, where a delicious feast of spicy snapper ceviche awaited us. For dinner, Zez offers a more refined affair and a splendid menu featuring wagyu beef and freshly caught fish.

After an exhausting afternoon relaxing on the beach, it was off to the spa. A true destination spa, the stylish retreat boasts five treatment pavilions, a serene open-plan relaxation area and a secret rooftop chill out zone – the best spot in the resort to capture the stunning sunsets. With flight battered skin I booked in for their Marine Mineral Facial. The next morning my skin was glowing and I was ready to take on the jet set, at Desroches.

So, with our energy restored it was back to the airport, for an even more decadent flight…a private jet. Being a nervous flier (yes, I am in the wrong job, I know), I was feeling a little apprehensive as I boarded the tiny 8 seater plane. However, just minutes after takeoff I was far too distracted by the amazing views of Mahe at 13,000 feet to care. After just half an hour we were touching down on Desroches, greeted by a line of smiling and waving staff. It did not take us long to work out why they all looked so happy.

As our villa host opened the doors to our new home, my travelling companion Annika looked at me in shock as we were guided through the enormous kitchen and living area and through to our private infinity pool which gave way to our garden and personal beach. No sooner had he shut the door, we were high fiving in the pool, you know, our private pool…did I mention that already?

After an afternoon luxuriating in the Seychellois sun, we donned our LBDs and headed down to the beachfront restaurant, but you won’t find any Choos on this beach; it’s barefoot glamour all the way. This is one of the beauties of Desroches; despite being a magnet for the rich and famous, its beauty and class are inherent. Its style is more beach chic than bling bling and as a result you are more likely to bump in to Kate Middleton than Katie Price on these shores.

During our times at Desroches we enjoyed an array of delicious food, but there is no better taste than a fish you caught with your own bare hands…oh yes, Jess and Annika went deep sea fishing. I am not going to lie, our strapping yachties Kyle and Matt looked a little apprehensive when we turned up; me prone to sea sickness and Annika with a lifelong phobia of fish. And despite having chosen our new bikinis in favour of life jackets (awful tan lines, don’t you know) we were soon heading out to the ominously named Drop Off Point, where the shallow turquoise waters of the coral island are replaced by the choppy deep blue ocean.

“Yesterday we caught a tuna and we were too slow pulling it into the boat,” Kyle said. We vaguely absorbed the story but were more interested in absorbing the rays…until the ‘s’ word caught our attention. “And a shark snatched it; the bugger only left us the head.” Annika and I quickly pulled our legs back inside the boat and stared at each other as the colour drained from our faces.

Five minutes in and I was desperately clinging to the side of the spray covered boat for dear life while I stared at the horizon in a bid to avoid meeting my breakfast. I was turning greener by the minute but I could not return to shore without a fish. “We got a bite,” yelled Kyle, “Jess, you’re up!”

Annika looked relieved, and still too scared to open my mouth I had little choice as the boys grabbed me and urged me towards the rod. Annika sat in hysterics as I repeatedly screamed “Get me my strap-on!” pointing towards the phallic looking belt that the rod clicks into for weaklings like me. I grabbed the rod and reeled my little heart out when I looked down and suddenly regretted wearing a strapless bikini. “Annika, grab my top!” She came at me with tears streaming down her cheeks.

My strap-on malfunctioned and I threw myself against the side of the boat for leverage as I heaved my catch from the sea, feeling like someone from a Carry On sketch. There it was, a beautiful, skinny and rather pissed off looking yellow fin tuna. Dinner.

I stared at the creature in disbelief but there was no time to parade my pride. “We’ve got another bite. Annika, you’re up!” he yelled across the deck. Annika, having had a lifelong phobia of fish, looked petrified as she was dragged towards the infamous strap-on device and clicked onto the heaving rod. Minutes later by some miracle her tiny frame pulled out an enormous Wahoo (that is a funny looking fish, not a yell of excitement).

As we clasped our prize catches and posed for photos, I felt a surge of pride; we had just wrestled our own dinner in the depths of the Indian Ocean – not bad for a seasick sissy and a fish phobic Chelsea gal. Having chucked the catch in the cool box we took up our places once more; Annika stretched out like a model across the deck, and me…desperately clinging to the side of the boat, staring longingly to see the shores of Desroches.

But, no rest for the wicked, no sooner had we stepped foot on dry land and two more handsome chaps were escorting us out to sea, this time snorkelling. With the tales of sharks still ringing in my ears, I was a little wary as I jumped off the boat but the second I saw what lay beneath I was captivated. The shallow turquoise waters were home to numerous coral reefs alive with everything from spiky crocodile needlefish and stripy snappers to crayfish and ornate coral. One of the instructors beckoned me over and urged me to dive down towards a cave to show me something; it only took one look at the sting ray for me to scurry back up to the surface and back to the mainland.

Once again as soon as our feet touched the sand we were led away to another boat. We were starting to get the distinct feeling we were not welcome on the mainland…until we saw the boat. As yet another strapping yachtsman held out his hand to welcome us onboard the enormous catamaran, we heard a pop as the champagne started flowing, and with that we cruised along the coastline watching the sun melt into the sea before returning to Desroches beneath a blanket of stars. As we made our way barefoot to one of the candlelit tables on the beach, we were presented with a delicious sashimi platter of our own tuna and wahoo. I bet her royal highness didn’t do that. Didn’t one do well!? Wahoo!

LuxuryHolidaysDirect.com offer 7 nights at Desroches on all inclusive basis and 1 night at the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles on breakfast basis for £3729 person in a leadin- room category Villa, return economy flights on Etihad from 01 Sep to 30 Nov 2012. Price includes private transfers, VIP meet and greet and airport tax. Package includes a total saving of £360 per person. Call Luxury Holidays Direct on 020 8774 7297 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 020 8774 7297 end_of_the_skype_highlighting or visit the website.

Rooms at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles start at €725 per night excluding taxes and charges. Prices are based on two people sharing and include breakfast. For more information and offers visit the website.

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Fifty Shades of Bay - The Arbuturian I am in love, with a stud called Mac. We’ve only just met and yet as soon as we locked eyes I knew he was the one. Tall, dark and handsome, I’m awestruck as his rippling muscles gleam under the intense heat of the Cumbrian sun. As I get closer I can smell him; an intoxicating mix of earth, sweat and leather floods my senses. As the excitement takes over my body I grab my whip and slowly mount him. He is enormous. He is 50 shades of bay. Yes, Mac is one of the most beautiful horses I’ve seen in years. Well what did you think I was talking about? Okay, I may have led you down the garden path there, but you have to make your own trouble around here. I am in the depths of Cumbria, bordering the stunning Lake District and its timeless beauty is like a scene from a Jane Austen novel; all rolling heather-covered hills, dramatic skies and peaceful tarns. Why, the air smells so fresh I am feeling more wholesome by the minute. So, what is a city slicker doing in a deserted farmyard in the middle of Cumbria with a faint waft of manure threatening to seriously overpower her Chanel? Well, I am here to experience my first riding holiday; a dream I have been eager to fulfill ever since my parents first dumped me at the local stables for a spot of underage slave labour and some peace and quiet. Far from deterring me, the soiled straw and frosty mornings left me desperate for more as I glossed through the pages of Horse and Pony magazine staring enviously at the chaste women pictured galloping through the sea or jumping a fallen tree in some picturesque corner of England. Well, now it’s my turn and having finally made to the Cumbrian Heavy Horses centre I can’t help but be a little intimidated as I stare at the 18 hand beast that stands in front of me. A small family-run stable, the only specialised Heavy Horse Riding establishment in the UK, it’s nestled in the foothills of the famous fells of Black and White Combe, surrounded by desolate beaches and vast lakes and offering some of the most exciting hacking in the country. Having spent half an hour mulling around, nervously perusing the information on each of the beautiful (and enormous!!) creatures, I was introduce to Mac, my stallion for the day. Annie, the stables’ feisty, and pleasingly bohemian, owner soon made us feel at home and with my excited nervousness left behind we headed off the beach. Bumping around in the trailer it was refreshing to hear someone speak so passionately about the heavy horses. Largely thought of as just working horses Annie has a real passion for promoting these gentle giants as riding companions, and what riding companions they are! We wasted no time and were soon galloping along the empty shores with uncontrollable grins stretched across our faces. I soon regretted asking for the ‘slow one’ as my flatmate Heather galloped off ahead of me, covering me in salty wet sand and leaving only her cackle behind. Charging off along the desolate beach as the icy Cumbrian air runs through your hair and the Irish Sea pummels the coastline beside you is totally invigorating and immediately puts London life in to perspective; I felt my worries slip away one by one as my eyes stared hypnotically at the horizon as I charged towards it. That evening, having headed back to our 14th century manor house hotel, Irton Hall, to shower off my facemask of sand and mud, we kicked off the jodhpurs and headed off in search of a log fire and a large glass of red. Within minutes we stumbled upon Nether Wasdale; the quaint hamlet was set against the stunning backdrop of Britain’s highest mountain, Scafell Pike, which was stained a beautiful burnt orange by the setting sun. As we sat beside The Strand Inn’s roaring log fire with that satisfying rosy glow that accompanies a good gallivant, we excitedly compared stories from our adventure. Laughing over a hearty home-cooked meal and bottle of plonk in the middle of nowhere, the world of spreadsheets and conference calls couldn’t have felt any further away. I can honestly say it was the most exhilarating ride of my life. Stuff Christian Grey, I’d take Mac any day. Cumbrian Heavy Horses, Chappels Farm, Whicham Valley, Nr Millom, Cumbria LA18 5LY. Tel: +44 (0)1229 777764 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting +44 (0)1229 777764 end_of_the_skype_highlighting. Website. Irton Hall B&B, Irton, Eskdale, Holmrook, Cumbria, CA19 1TA. Tel: +44 (0)19467 26025 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting +44 (0)19467 26025 end_of_the_skype_highlighting. Website.

Fifty Shades of Bay - The Arbuturian

I am in love, with a stud called Mac. We’ve only just met and yet as soon as we locked eyes I knew he was the one. Tall, dark and handsome, I’m awestruck as his rippling muscles gleam under the intense heat of the Cumbrian sun. As I get closer I can smell him; an intoxicating mix of earth, sweat and leather floods my senses. As the excitement takes over my body I grab my whip and slowly mount him. He is enormous. He is 50 shades of bay.

Yes, Mac is one of the most beautiful horses I’ve seen in years. Well what did you think I was talking about? Okay, I may have led you down the garden path there, but you have to make your own trouble around here. I am in the depths of Cumbria, bordering the stunning Lake District and its timeless beauty is like a scene from a Jane Austen novel; all rolling heather-covered hills, dramatic skies and peaceful tarns. Why, the air smells so fresh I am feeling more wholesome by the minute. So, what is a city slicker doing in a deserted farmyard in the middle of Cumbria with a faint waft of manure threatening to seriously overpower her Chanel? Well, I am here to experience my first riding holiday; a dream I have been eager to fulfill ever since my parents first dumped me at the local stables for a spot of underage slave labour and some peace and quiet. Far from deterring me, the soiled straw and frosty mornings left me desperate for more as I glossed through the pages of Horse and Pony magazine staring enviously at the chaste women pictured galloping through the sea or jumping a fallen tree in some picturesque corner of England.

Well, now it’s my turn and having finally made to the Cumbrian Heavy Horses centre I can’t help but be a little intimidated as I stare at the 18 hand beast that stands in front of me. A small family-run stable, the only specialised Heavy Horse Riding establishment in the UK, it’s nestled in the foothills of the famous fells of Black and White Combe, surrounded by desolate beaches and vast lakes and offering some of the most exciting hacking in the country.

Having spent half an hour mulling around, nervously perusing the information on each of the beautiful (and enormous!!) creatures, I was introduce to Mac, my stallion for the day. Annie, the stables’ feisty, and pleasingly bohemian, owner soon made us feel at home and with my excited nervousness left behind we headed off the beach. Bumping around in the trailer it was refreshing to hear someone speak so passionately about the heavy horses. Largely thought of as just working horses Annie has a real passion for promoting these gentle giants as riding companions, and what riding companions they are!

We wasted no time and were soon galloping along the empty shores with uncontrollable grins stretched across our faces. I soon regretted asking for the ‘slow one’ as my flatmate Heather galloped off ahead of me, covering me in salty wet sand and leaving only her cackle behind. Charging off along the desolate beach as the icy Cumbrian air runs through your hair and the Irish Sea pummels the coastline beside you is totally invigorating and immediately puts London life in to perspective; I felt my worries slip away one by one as my eyes stared hypnotically at the horizon as I charged towards it.

That evening, having headed back to our 14th century manor house hotel, Irton Hall, to shower off my facemask of sand and mud, we kicked off the jodhpurs and headed off in search of a log fire and a large glass of red. Within minutes we stumbled upon Nether Wasdale; the quaint hamlet was set against the stunning backdrop of Britain’s highest mountain, Scafell Pike, which was stained a beautiful burnt orange by the setting sun. As we sat beside The Strand Inn’s roaring log fire with that satisfying rosy glow that accompanies a good gallivant, we excitedly compared stories from our adventure. Laughing over a hearty home-cooked meal and bottle of plonk in the middle of nowhere, the world of spreadsheets and conference calls couldn’t have felt any further away. I can honestly say it was the most exhilarating ride of my life. Stuff Christian Grey, I’d take Mac any day.

Cumbrian Heavy Horses, Chappels Farm, Whicham Valley, Nr Millom, Cumbria LA18 5LY. Tel: +44 (0)1229 777764 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting +44 (0)1229 777764 end_of_the_skype_highlighting. Website.

Irton Hall B&B, Irton, Eskdale, Holmrook, Cumbria, CA19 1TA. Tel: +44 (0)19467 26025 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting +44 (0)19467 26025 end_of_the_skype_highlighting. Website.

0 notes

A Weekender’s Guide to Stockholm - Time Out By Jessica Baldwin  During the winter months in the Swedish capital, ‘whistleblowing’ takes on a whole new meaning. Forget informants and dodgy dealing – the high-pitched shrieks that fill Stockholm’s dark, cobbled streets serve to warn wanderers of the constant stream of snowy avalanches that tumble from the city’s rooftops. With temperatures falling as low as -13°C degrees, only the bravest tourists make it to this winter wonderland. Those that do, however, are rewarded with more than 100 museums and galleries, a creative culinary scene and a cockle-warming cafe culture. Set across 14 picturesque islands, this diverse city has all interests covered; high end fashion in Ostermalm, cobbled streets and cafes in the Old Town and bohemian bars in Sodermalm’s trendy Sofo area. Shopping and style in Stockholm Sweden is famous around the world for its practical, clean and stylish design ethics, so it’s no surprise that Stockholm is a treasure trove for fashionistas. While all the high street staples are present and correct, the city is also awash with pop-up shops, vintage stores and high-end boutiques, with each district offering its own arsenal of consumerist distractions. The central area of Norrmalm is a good initiation. Although its main streets may seem characterless at first, it does have a few fantastic department stores hidden amidst the repetitive chains. NK (Hamngatan 18, +46 8 762 83 65) is the Harrods of Stockholm. Dating back to 1902, this historic mass of shopping halls features an impressive array of Swedish brands alongside all of the usual suspects and sells everything from hosiery to homewares. The misleadingly named PUB (Hötorget Stockholm, +46 8 789 19 30), on the other hand, is a good choice for eclectic fashion, as well as a good selection of vintage items. But, for a true vintage experience, head south to trendy Sodermalm, where the streets are lined with independent shops selling unusual jewellery, fashion and all manner of other trinkets. Don’t miss Grandpa (Södermannagatan 21, +46 8 643 60 80), where you can listen to local DJs while you shop. Lisa Larsson’s (Bondegatan, +46 8-643 61 53) popular vintage boutique is also worth a visit, specialising in select pieces from the 30s-70s. If the muted Swedish pallet leaves you craving a bit of colour, head to Odd Molly (Kornhamnstorg 6, +46 8 30 36 28) where bright hues and floral patterns provide a playful twist to Swedish fashion. For interior design, Asplund (Sibyllegatan 31, +46 8 662 52 84) is a must-visit. Selling Scandinavian rugs, furnishings and lamps, it’s great for picking up stylish signature pieces. Design junkies should also check out DesignHouse Stockholm’s collection in NK, which brings together some of the best pieces from Sweden’s most talented designers. Restaurants in Stockholm Stockholm is fast becoming one of Europe’s hottest culinary capitals, with an ever-growing stable of Michelin-recognised venues and base and an exciting selection of innovative, home-grown chefs. The latest talked-about opening is Taverna Brillo (Sturegatan 6, +46 8 519 77 800); a lively bar, deli and restaurant that serves inventive Italian fare and great opportunities for people-watching. The crispy prosciutto and fig pizza is deliciously sweet and the sage and brown butter gnocchi is deliciously hearty. Arrive early and enjoy a drink in the back area, where the afro-topped DJ pumps out tunes whilst casually sipping champagne. Another restaurant grabbing the headlines is Gastrologik (Artillerigatan 14, +46 86623060); a fine dining restaurant with a frustratingly lengthy waiting list. Proprietors Anton Bjuhr and Jacob Holmstrom build their ever-changing menus around the finest available ingredients, resulting in an unusual and avant-garde dining experience. Their new no bookings restaurant, Speceriet, is literally next door and offers a less formal (and more affordable) opportunity to experience their cooking. Alternatively, head to one of the city’s food halls and sample the finest local produce and street food Stockholm has to offer. Championed by the likes of Jamie Oliver, Ostermalm’s Saluhall was established over 130 years ago and is the city’s oldest food hall. Head here to try delicacies such as reindeer and moose, but arrive early, as the crowds are often shoulder-to-shoulder come midday. Stockholm’s medieval Old Town is the perfect place to escape the wintery snow flurries and hole up in a cosy cafe. Tea fans with deep pockets should visit Chaikhana (Svartmangatan 23, +46 8 24 45 00), a small independent tea room specialising in rare teas from around the world. Those with a sweet tooth, meanwhile, should make time for fika, a uniquely Swedish afternoon tea. One of the most authentic places to indulge in the local cinnamon-sprinkled pastries is Vete-katten (Kungsgatan 55). Located in central Stockholm, it’s one of the best preserved traditional cafes – don’t miss their infamous ‘princess cake’. Galleries and museums in Stockholm If culture is high on your agenda, you’ll do well to invest in a Stockholm Card, which grants free entry to 80 museums and attractions around the city. With more than 100 museums to choose from it can be hard to know where to start, however certain islands house more treasures than others. Djurgarden is home to more than twenty of Stockholm’s best museums and attractions. If you only visit one museum, make it Vasa Museum (Galärvarvsvägen 14, + 46 8519 548 00), dedicated to an enormous Swedish war ship that sank in Stockholm on its maiden voyage in 1628, and was salvaged 333 years later. The Vasa is the only preserved seventeenth-century ship in the world and after a painstaking restoration project lasting almost half a century, the 69-metre-long beast has been returned to its former glory. Also on the island is Skansen (Djurgårdsslätten 49-51,+46 8 442 80 00) – the world’s first open-air museum, which allows visitors a chance to explore historic Sweden in miniature. Wander around the tiny town and you’ll stumble across glass-blowers, pottery shops and even an eighteenth-century wooden church. For kids, the museum also houses a miniature zoo, housing moose, bears, lynxes and even wolverines. The peaceful island of Skeppsholmen – lovingly referred to as ‘museum island’ by locals – is also well worth a visit. Linked to central Stockholm by a bridge it feels like a peaceful retreat from the city and has wonderful views of the city across the water. The Museum of Modern Art (Exercisplan 21, +46 8519 552 00) has an impressive collection of Swedish art as well as pieces by the likes of Picasso, Dali and Matisse. The Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities (Skeppsholmen 41, +46 8 519 557 50) is home to an exciting mix of art and culture from India south-east Asia, and one of the most impassive collections of Chinese art outside of China. Its current exhibition (until March 31 2013), ‘Secret Love’, features 150 thought-provoking artworks by 27 acclaimed Chinese artists, all dealing with controversial subjects such as sexuality, identity and normality. Stay As well as museums, Skeppsholmen is also home to a trendy eco hotel, ideal for those looking to appreciate Swedish hospitality and design away from the crowds. Located within the old Naval offices, Hotel Skeppsholmen’s (Gröna gången 1, +46 8 407 23 00) minimalist rooms and candlelit communal areas feel decidedly boutique. Rates starting at £148 a night represent great value in what can be an expensive city. Go British Airways operates 11 flights a week direct from London City Airport to Stockholm. Book by January 22 2013 for return fares from just £136 including taxes.

A Weekender’s Guide to Stockholm - Time Out

By Jessica Baldwin 

During the winter months in the Swedish capital, ‘whistleblowing’ takes on a whole new meaning. Forget informants and dodgy dealing – the high-pitched shrieks that fill Stockholm’s dark, cobbled streets serve to warn wanderers of the constant stream of snowy avalanches that tumble from the city’s rooftops.

With temperatures falling as low as -13°C degrees, only the bravest tourists make it to this winter wonderland. Those that do, however, are rewarded with more than 100 museums and galleries, a creative culinary scene and a cockle-warming cafe culture. Set across 14 picturesque islands, this diverse city has all interests covered; high end fashion in Ostermalm, cobbled streets and cafes in the Old Town and bohemian bars in Sodermalm’s trendy Sofo area.

Shopping and style in Stockholm

Sweden is famous around the world for its practical, clean and stylish design ethics, so it’s no surprise that Stockholm is a treasure trove for fashionistas. While all the high street staples are present and correct, the city is also awash with pop-up shops, vintage stores and high-end boutiques, with each district offering its own arsenal of consumerist distractions.

The central area of Norrmalm is a good initiation. Although its main streets may seem characterless at first, it does have a few fantastic department stores hidden amidst the repetitive chains. NK (Hamngatan 18, +46 8 762 83 65) is the Harrods of Stockholm. Dating back to 1902, this historic mass of shopping halls features an impressive array of Swedish brands alongside all of the usual suspects and sells everything from hosiery to homewares. The misleadingly named PUB (Hötorget Stockholm, +46 8 789 19 30), on the other hand, is a good choice for eclectic fashion, as well as a good selection of vintage items.

But, for a true vintage experience, head south to trendy Sodermalm, where the streets are lined with independent shops selling unusual jewellery, fashion and all manner of other trinkets. Don’t miss Grandpa (Södermannagatan 21, +46 8 643 60 80), where you can listen to local DJs while you shop. Lisa Larsson’s (Bondegatan, +46 8-643 61 53) popular vintage boutique is also worth a visit, specialising in select pieces from the 30s-70s.

If the muted Swedish pallet leaves you craving a bit of colour, head to Odd Molly (Kornhamnstorg 6, +46 8 30 36 28) where bright hues and floral patterns provide a playful twist to Swedish fashion.

For interior design, Asplund (Sibyllegatan 31, +46 8 662 52 84) is a must-visit. Selling Scandinavian rugs, furnishings and lamps, it’s great for picking up stylish signature pieces. Design junkies should also check out DesignHouse Stockholm’s collection in NK, which brings together some of the best pieces from Sweden’s most talented designers.

Restaurants in Stockholm

Stockholm is fast becoming one of Europe’s hottest culinary capitals, with an ever-growing stable of Michelin-recognised venues and base and an exciting selection of innovative, home-grown chefs. The latest talked-about opening is Taverna Brillo (Sturegatan 6, +46 8 519 77 800); a lively bar, deli and restaurant that serves inventive Italian fare and great opportunities for people-watching. The crispy prosciutto and fig pizza is deliciously sweet and the sage and brown butter gnocchi is deliciously hearty. Arrive early and enjoy a drink in the back area, where the afro-topped DJ pumps out tunes whilst casually sipping champagne.

Another restaurant grabbing the headlines is Gastrologik (Artillerigatan 14, +46 86623060); a fine dining restaurant with a frustratingly lengthy waiting list. Proprietors Anton Bjuhr and Jacob Holmstrom build their ever-changing menus around the finest available ingredients, resulting in an unusual and avant-garde dining experience. Their new no bookings restaurant, Speceriet, is literally next door and offers a less formal (and more affordable) opportunity to experience their cooking.

Alternatively, head to one of the city’s food halls and sample the finest local produce and street food Stockholm has to offer. Championed by the likes of Jamie Oliver, Ostermalm’s Saluhall was established over 130 years ago and is the city’s oldest food hall. Head here to try delicacies such as reindeer and moose, but arrive early, as the crowds are often shoulder-to-shoulder come midday.

Stockholm’s medieval Old Town is the perfect place to escape the wintery snow flurries and hole up in a cosy cafe. Tea fans with deep pockets should visit Chaikhana (Svartmangatan 23, +46 8 24 45 00), a small independent tea room specialising in rare teas from around the world. Those with a sweet tooth, meanwhile, should make time for fika, a uniquely Swedish afternoon tea. One of the most authentic places to indulge in the local cinnamon-sprinkled pastries is Vete-katten (Kungsgatan 55). Located in central Stockholm, it’s one of the best preserved traditional cafes – don’t miss their infamous ‘princess cake’.

Galleries and museums in Stockholm

If culture is high on your agenda, you’ll do well to invest in a Stockholm Card, which grants free entry to 80 museums and attractions around the city. With more than 100 museums to choose from it can be hard to know where to start, however certain islands house more treasures than others.

Djurgarden is home to more than twenty of Stockholm’s best museums and attractions. If you only visit one museum, make it Vasa Museum (Galärvarvsvägen 14, + 46 8519 548 00), dedicated to an enormous Swedish war ship that sank in Stockholm on its maiden voyage in 1628, and was salvaged 333 years later. The Vasa is the only preserved seventeenth-century ship in the world and after a painstaking restoration project lasting almost half a century, the 69-metre-long beast has been returned to its former glory.

Also on the island is Skansen (Djurgårdsslätten 49-51,+46 8 442 80 00) – the world’s first open-air museum, which allows visitors a chance to explore historic Sweden in miniature. Wander around the tiny town and you’ll stumble across glass-blowers, pottery shops and even an eighteenth-century wooden church. For kids, the museum also houses a miniature zoo, housing moose, bears, lynxes and even wolverines.

The peaceful island of Skeppsholmen – lovingly referred to as ‘museum island’ by locals – is also well worth a visit. Linked to central Stockholm by a bridge it feels like a peaceful retreat from the city and has wonderful views of the city across the water. The Museum of Modern Art (Exercisplan 21, +46 8519 552 00) has an impressive collection of Swedish art as well as pieces by the likes of Picasso, Dali and Matisse.

The Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities (Skeppsholmen 41, +46 8 519 557 50) is home to an exciting mix of art and culture from India south-east Asia, and one of the most impassive collections of Chinese art outside of China. Its current exhibition (until March 31 2013), ‘Secret Love’, features 150 thought-provoking artworks by 27 acclaimed Chinese artists, all dealing with controversial subjects such as sexuality, identity and normality.

Stay

As well as museums, Skeppsholmen is also home to a trendy eco hotel, ideal for those looking to appreciate Swedish hospitality and design away from the crowds. Located within the old Naval offices, Hotel Skeppsholmen’s (Gröna gången 1, +46 8 407 23 00) minimalist rooms and candlelit communal areas feel decidedly boutique. Rates starting at £148 a night represent great value in what can be an expensive city.

Go

British Airways operates 11 flights a week direct from London City Airport to Stockholm. Book by January 22 2013 for return fares from just £136 including taxes.

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Castles and Culatello in Emilia Romagna

 

I am in a state of discombobulation as I find myself eye-to-eye with a pain-stricken Virgin Mary, six daggers protruding from her chest. To my right is a statue of a man about to lose his leg to what looks like a rabid dog; to my left, a collection of human bones. “They belonged to a Saint,” says our wild-eyed guide Daniella, “and so did these…” she adds, revealing more fragments of human bone gracing the walls in ornate frames.

I am in the Rivalta Castle, an eerie private abode. Dating back to the 11th century it features everything from an armoury and dungeon to an honour chamber and Princess Margaret’s bedroom. It even boasts a frescoed dining room where magical walls transport a whisper from one corner to another, for the ultimate medieval gossip session. The striking property is just one of 647 castles, fortresses and towers peppered around the lush Emilia Romagna region. Once accessible to only the richest Italians, today the historic buildings house rare wine cellars, fascinating museums and luxe boutique hotels.

In the shadows of the grand Rivalta Castle stands the Residenza Torre di San Martino, an ivy-covered hotel featuring ten elegant guest rooms boasting four-poster beds and views across to the beautiful castle. My geranium-fringed balcony made for the perfect spot to absorb the early morning rays and hear the church bells before breakfast.

Just a short drive away on the banks of the River Po is the ancient town of Piacenza. Its name derives from the Latin for ‘to please’, and it certainly does. This enchanting town of narrow alleys, gothic churches and independent eateries is often ignored in favour of its glamorous neighbour Parma – however, Piacenza is home to some of the best food in Italy, not to mention its rich history and world-class arts. On the city’s northern borders stands Palazzo Farnese; the enormous building was originally designed as a court to the Duke of Piacenza and despite construction starting back in the 1500s, in true Italian style, it remains uncompleted to this day. Today the castle is home to numerous museums and galleries specialising in everything from frescoes and sculptures to a dedicated coach museum. If you only see one thing in the castle, head to The Gallery and admire Botticelli’s painting of Madonna and Child with the Young St. John the Baptist. Dating back to the late 1400s, its understated beauty is almost luminescent and still sits within its original gilded frame.

In the old town, nestled amidst the Austrian-inspired patisseries and traditional espresso bars, hides the understated entrance of Antica Osteria del Teatro, run by Michelin-starred chef Filippo Chiappini Dattilo. The chic, dimly-lit restaurant offers a three-course set lunch with a glass of wine for just €30 making it one of the best value dining experiences in town. My seasonal pumpkin soup came with an enormous dollop of creamy gorgonzola and a drizzle of the area’s famous balsamic. After lunch Filippo – who has had Michelin stars hanging from his apron strings for quarter of a century! – gave us a tour of his real passion: his wine cellar. The immaculate room was stacked floor-to-ceiling with some of the oldest and finest wines in existence; some dating back to 1947!

With the local lambrusco still dancing across my tongue I headed off to the tiny village of Agazzano, at the base of the Apennine Mountains. At the heart of Agazzano is, unsurprisingly, a castle. In fact, as with many areas, the village only existed as a result of the striking building. Dating back to the 13th century, the castle was built by the infamous Scotti family and remains in its possession today. While its fortress is frequented by fairy tale weddings, the ’villa’ remains a home, with its cellars dedicated to wine.

It was a surreal experience and its handsome cashmere-clad owner led me through room after room of floor-to-ceiling frescoes, each with commanding views across the gardens and stables. After an afternoon of wine tasting we all fell in love with the Castello di Agazzano Bargello, and as we traipsed off in search of the award-winning local butcher laden with bottles of the red, we all decided that it was worth having to fly in every item of clothing we had brought if it meant we could squeeze an extra bottle into our cases.

If meat is more your vice then Antica Corte Pallavicina is the castle for you. Located in the peaceful Parmense Lowlands it’s as famous for its immense culatelli cellar (6000 of the prized hams hang in a meaty dungeon below the castle!) as it is for its Michelin-starred owner and chef. Massimo and Luciano Spigaroli restored the 14th century castle from ruins and today it’s eclectic interior exudes character and comfort in every crevice, and its decadent bedrooms feature roll top baths, king-size beds and views across the River Po. The market garden was full of flowering courgettes and countless fruit trees on our visit. Unsurprisingly the restaurant is arguably the best place in the region to sample culatello, however on my visit Massimo had arranged a banquet with not one, but three fellow Michelin-starred chefs… in a neighbouring castle, naturally.

Surrounded by a wide moat, the illuminated Castello Fontanellato is bursting with 16th, 17th and 18th century antiques, elaborate frescoes and dramatic family portraits. After a glass of the local frizzante in the courtyard with the local mayor, we took a tour of the grand interior before settling down to the dinner of all dinners. It was a satisfying moment when I realised I had experienced the work of five Michelin-starred chefs in less than twenty four hours.

The next morning, still bursting at the seams from my royal feast, I headed to the beautiful terracotta-hued city of Parma. Having delved into the painstakingly pungent process of making Parmigiano Reggiano, I threw off my hairnet and plastic ensemble and headed for the city centre where our witty guide Melanie shared her passion for the city’s religious scene.

“The cathedral is spectacular; I often visit,” she said, as we strolled through Piazzo del Duomo and passed its dramatic Romanesque façade, towards the pink marble baptistery. “I come every Christmas to mass here; it’s magical,” she continued, as we entered the peaceful building. Just as Melanie began to delve into the semiotic meanings behind the intricate paintings that adorned the ceiling, two burly German women next to us casually burst into deafening operatic song; their voices echoing around the tiny room.

“Oh for God’s sake!” Melanie exclaimed, without a hint of irony. Her exasperation is valid, you see this has happened to us at every turn. The city’s streets are alive with Verdi at every corner. After hunching together in a rugby-style scrum in an attempt to hear her over the climaxing cadenza we admitted defeat and wandered next door to the cathedral. I’m not one for churches and cathedrals, they often fall off my itinerary, however Parma Cathedral’s extravagant gothic interior was breathtaking. At the far end of the echoing interior hides the dome; painted by Correggio, it is arguably one of the greatest and most controversial examples of Romanesco art. The masterpiece, depicting the Assumption, has been met with bemusement over the years; with one contemporary comparing it to a “bowl of frog soup” and Dickens himself commenting that it looked like a “surgeon’s nightmare”, with arms and legs flailing everywhere. Well, it may not be good enough for Dickens, but I know two Germans who would love the acoustics!

For more information on the Emilia Romagna region, visit www.travelemiliaromagna.com

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Paradise in the Seychelles: Desroches Island


The Credentials:

Just five degrees south of the equator, the Seychelles offer year-round sunshine, picture-perfect beaches, lush jungle and world-class hotels. One of the Seychelles’ most exclusive resorts is just a 40 minute flight from the capital island of Mahe. Just four miles long, the tiny island of Desroches is blanketed in cinnamon and coconut trees and boasts 15km of white sandy beaches. This year it became home to the Seychelles’ most expensive villa; a snip at £10,000 per night.

Dine:

Forget your Jimmy’s, there are no Choos on this beach; it is barefoot glamour all the way and dining by moonlight to the sound of the waves and the feel of sand between your feet is perfect after a long day in the sun. At the moment the island has just one restaurant serving fresh international fare but later this year its Creole restaurant will also open. My favourite dish was the seared nicoise salad… that was until we went fishing. I boarded the boat with a beautiful golden tan and left it an unappealing shade of minty green – but despite the sea sickness we returned with not one fish, but two! Yes, the Chelsea girls did good and after an hour at sea we reeled in a yellow fin tuna and a wahoo fish, which upon our request the hotel chef magically transformed in to an array of sashimi and carpaccio that would cause you to re-mortgage at Nobu.

Sleep:

Our spacious four bedroom villa featured an impressively large private pool, which overlooked a secluded garden and our own deserted beach. Our villa came with two bicycles to explore the island and its jungle and a couple of kayaks to seek out its secluded bays and coves. Our open plan villa was flooded with natural light and oozed Creole chic with local timber floors and furniture. The design made it easy to make the most of the surroundings with various al fresco chill out areas, balconies and sun beds to choose from. We both loved the outdoor showers and roll top baths which were piled high with L’Occitane goodies and our enormous net-draped beds left us feeling like royalty.

Who Goes There?:

Originally inhabited by seventeenth century pirates, today the 115 islands that make up the Seychelles are a magnet for the rich and famous. The business class section of our Etihad flight was busy with glamorous women travelling in six inch Louboutins and giant sunglasses, sipping Champagne before takeoff. 
With only one hotel on the island, Desroches is favored for its peace and privacy; you can forget paparazzi hungry posers, you are more likely to bump in to royalty on this beach. In 2007 it was here that Prince William whisked Kate Middleton away for a make or break holiday and we all know how that turned out! The candlelit beachfront restaurant, Champagne cruises and blissful spa are a magnet for Hollywood heroes and honeymooners, but its sympathetic design means you could spend a week here without bumping in to another soul – we didn’t!

Out & About:

I am not going to lie, it was pretty difficult tearing ourselves away from our villa, but there is more to Desroches than five-star sunbathing. There is a whole Indian village where men work tirelessly creating all of the beautiful wooden furniture for the villas, plus a traditional Creole village which is home to fishermen and conservationists that look after the island’s population of Giant Seychellois Tortoises. On the southern tip of the island you will find the Castaway centre, where toned, tanned surfer dudes await with a bevy of aquatic activities. During our stay we tried a spot of snorkeling and as a grey rain storm battered the surface above we delved beneath the warm waters, skimming the coral reefs and spotting colourful snappers, clownfish and even a sting ray. For those who prefer to stay above the water, try the hotel’s hydro bikes, perfect for working off those cocktails. For nature lovers, Creole resident Tony offers early morning conservation walks to take in the local flora and fauna and for those that want to get up close and personal with the wildlife try a bike ride through the jungle which is crammed with creepy crawlies, crabs and the odd tortoise. Ask reception and they will deliver a handmade picnic lunch and chilled bottle of wine to your chosen picnic spot and leave you in peace to enjoy it.

The Best Thing:

My trip was fit for a queen from start to finish. We kicked off in style with champagne and a massage in the swanky Etihad lounge before boarding in business class and enjoying a dinner of seared tuna and steak and then jumping into bed with a nightcap. On arrival our private plane was waiting to shoot us off Desroches, where after a 40 minute flight taking in the breathtaking views of Mahe from on high, we were greeted by a line of waving staff, a chilled coconut juice and a villa to die for. By the end of our stay we had dined under the stars, caught our own dinner, watched the sunset on a Champagne cruise and snorkeled with sting rays.

The Worst Thing:

It is pretty hard to manage to pick a hole in the impeccable service, idyllic setting and natural beauty… so I won’t. My only complaint is that the private plane didn’t forget to pick us up!

The Details:

LuxuryHolidaysDirect.comoffers seven nights at Desroches for £3379 per person, staying in a Luxury Beach Villa on an all-inclusive basis. Price includes return economy flights on Etihad from Saturday 1 September to Saturday 15 December 2012, private transfers, domestic flights to Desroches, VIP meet-and-greet and airport tax. Price also includes one free night, plus a further saving of £190 per person.

www.luxuryholidaysdirect.com; 020 8774 7297